The Alhambra and Scaling Castle Rock

Well there was a lot of hype building up to our visit to the Alhambra and it lived up to every bit. This is one monument that does not disappoint. Set high on a hill overlooking all of Granada and just across from a small valley from the Albaycin - the old Moorish center of the city - it dominates the view. Granada itself is quite a beautiful city. An extremely hot beautiful city. The day we visited, it was around 104 degrees. Drink water bro.

We arrived in the morning and had coffee at the Mirador, an Alhambra viewpoint set at the top of the Albaycin. After roaming the streets a bit and buying fruit at an old market near the old city gates, we made our way down an unmarked staircase from the Mirdor down to Plaza Nueva. The stairway was old and so narrow, at times Diego could touch wall to wall. The stairway basically cuts right down the hill, bisecting small streets and little hidden plazas. It dumped us out right in front of a church, a giant museum and a tourist info area where you can obtain a free walking map of Granada. This is useful for a beginner here.

We had prepaid tickets for the Alhambra palace waiting to be picked up at an ATM-like machine. After picking these up at a bookstore, we walked up the long steep hill to the middle gate of the Alhambra, first passing through an extensive forest and well watered path. After we walked through the 30 foot doors into the fortress, we entered a large plaza where we bought ice creams and beer before touring the palace.

The plaza contains an old Moorish fortress in front and a Roman ampitheter converted into a museum. The palace extends further back and huge gardens dominate most of the footprint. The palace was so too much. Historically, artistically... very moving. But it was so hot!

We saw the palace and the fortress boasts a tower with a full view of Granada and the surrounding countryside. After this, it was time for some shade and food and a proper Spanish lunch was provided at a hole in the wall restaurant on the road out from the base of the fortress. Here we spent a couple hours eating paella, fried fish, macaroni, lomo and a few cold drinks. (A typical Spanish lunch is three courses and a drink for about 8 euros.) It was worth it.

After lunch, we window shopped a bit before catching a bus to the bus station and then home to Cortijo Vadillo about an hour away. Granada was too good to miss: crowded and hot but so great. Old and beautiful and very friendly. We met some nice people from Cape Town and France, and the general vibe of the people was very friendly. We didn't get a chance to overnight in Granada but we hear the nightlife is also great fun.

The very next day proved another great adventure. We decided to ascend the castle rock that dominates our view across the valley. Our friends took us to the top of Castillo and we parked at the pool bar (a municipal pool that also has a bar - how wonderful!) From here, a short very steep climb brings you to a proper bandito cave hideout. The entrance is small but opens to a cavernous maw with a partial opening on one wall that lets in light, a space big enough for 20 people probably.

Our crew wanted more so we set up the mountain on a proper Denny Moylan scramble (you would have loved it dad) through Moorish terraced scrub. A sheep's skull was found well weathered. Also some very inaccessable ruins far from anything. Just some old stone walls that told of once was and has been. A large crack in the mountain appeared and a bone was spotted way down. Hopefully a goat or sheep bone. Further mountains were visible in a 360 degree view. Huge olive covered mountains baking in the heat of Andalu.

On our final approach to the top, we spotted a small cave entrance with refrigerator-cold air shooting out. We all took a turn at this natural aircon before moving on. Finally, we made it to the edge, 1300 feet above our valley floor and we easily spotted our cortijo. It felt like how a bird might see it: all tiny and railroad set looking. At the top, we ate our homemade pemmican and packed our hodges with pb and quince jam and chips near a pile of stones that had been made into a cylinder shape long ago.

Descending, we scrambled down a steep hill covered in almond trees and popped out on a dirt road that led us straight back to the pool bar. We arrived at the pool bar about 25 minutes before sunset. Enough time to relax and watch the huge red sun sink behind the mountains and the far off town of Alcuadete. It was spectacular... has to be one of the best places to watch a sunset. After some food here, the teenagers showed up for some fun and it was a good time for us to head home (after a few rounds of free drinks from the pool bar owner... nice).

I think I'm beginning to realize the apprehension of arrival may pale to the strong desire to stay once we have arrived. Spain has been very, very good to us, and we will be sad to say goodbye. Our next stop is Greece, and we leave here on Monday.

Next up: Granada waterpark, air travel, Milan for a day and Thassos!

To Cordoba

Car borrowed, early up and on the road, speed limit 100k to Cordoba... but first things first. Got to change the tire 'cause we popped a flat. Right out of the box, not 50 feet from jump. Although it was a Citroen, 15 minutes later we were on the road and a friendly garage down the road fixed it in a few minutes for 7 euros. The temp was cool as we got out early and it was only in the mid-80s by 10:30.

We passed many small towns on the way and finally made it to the exit for Cordoba. We had instructions on how to get to the Mesquita (mosque), and on point they were... had a bit of trouble at the roundabouts due to serious Spanish rule breakers. Finally parked west of Rio Guadalquivir and walked over the bridge to the Mesquita.

This was my and the boys' first view of an old European heritage site and it was crazy good. A mosque converted into a cathedral. The structure is Islamic architecture: columns and arches, intricate designs, beautiful design. The columns are stained from the millions of hands that have brushed by them, and the central temple (and all trappings) are extravagant, ornate Christian. Gold and over the top stone, metal and wood work... just draw dropping.

We navigated streets so small I could almost touch the width door to door to an archeological museum with caveman, Roman, Islamic and Christian artifacts. You could walk right through whole exhibits of statues and pottery and they even had a skeleton in a stone coffin.

We had lunch in the Plaza de Mesquita and witnessed a group of young Spanish men dressed as Roman warriors marching the streets singing Yankee Doodle Dandy in a marching cadence. What?!

Cordoba is insanely beautiful and well worth a look. Wish I could spend a week here. It is definitely the most pricey and by far more touristy city that we have visited so far, but incredible. The tile work, the horse carriages, the flamenco dancers lunching in the park, the ice cream, ah la vida.

The drive back was easy (save the roundabouts) which are total whirling dervish nightmares and the rest of the weekend was muy tranquilo.

El nino Luque (Cristobal) wanted me to tell you all that he is the big chief of all Andalucia and probably Spain as well. He sings, dances and is a young (18) 70 year old. We all like him very much and feel fortunate to have met him and Manuel his neighbor and friend.

Next weekend here is our last and I will always recommend Spain when talking of Europe... particularly Andalucia donde el sangre es caliente! (where the blood is hot!)

This week, the Alhambra, a biker rock concert down at the Nacimiento; next week off to Greece!

World Cup (or I've finally witnessed a winning feeling) and Etno Sur

It's been awhile since Spain shocked the world... well maybe not shocked as they were favored to win. But anyway, THEY WON! And we were there. So you know (this is for the few remaining Blazer fans out there) when you decide to give the Blazers another chance, it's like going back to an abusive relationship. You know you're gonna get hurt, but you go back anyway. And they start to play well and win; then all of a sudden you start rationalizing their chances. They could beat Houston, but... well you know the horrifying ending. [BTW, a giant one finger salute to Paul Allen. Really? Bob Whitsit was a total jerk and goodbye, but Kevin Pritchard? Good Lord Paul, do you just love to be a screw up? Huge mistake, and all those Blazers you love, well get ready to watch them pack.]

Ah yes, back to reality. Thankfully, the World Cup final was nothing like that. We watched the game on three big tvs in the main plaza of Castillo with every other resident of the town, and when the winning goal was scored... well imagine a whole town exploding. Complete and utter elation beyond description. People running through the streets; Spanish flags waving; people singing; making instant friends. I have a clear picture of Diego running and shouting at the same time with his hands in the air, fists. And then completely disappearing into an impossibly huge crowd, only to emerge minutes later with a sweaty smile of victory on his face. Unbelievably fun.

On one of the following days, we drove a short distance to a small waterfall on the Rio de San Juan (a small river that the Cortijo Vadillo springs feed into) and went for a swim in a truly idylic swimming hole... and I've been to lots. At this one, you can jump off a cliff into a waterfall and the river shoots you down into an easy get out point. The boys jumped in too from a lower spot and were easily able to swim to the shore. Totally sweet.

This last weekend brought the Etno Sur festival to the small city of Alcala la Real. Etno Sur is a world music festival held in the south of Spain and every year it's theme is different; this year, it was Cuban music. For three days, the town of Alcala is completely overrun with thousands of visitors from all over Europe looking to have a good time. There's music, a circus, food, merch, workshops and lots of partying on the street (all day and all night).

On Friday night, we took the boys to a circus with acrobats, a trapeze act, and a quick change couple. We scored front row seats right next to the circus ring and had a fantastic time. On Saturday night, the grownups stayed out til morning watching bands on the mainstage. A polio victim band from Africa and a Cuban 12 piece headliner, followed by a DJ. Somehow, we talked our way into the VIP bar backstage and got to rub elbows with the cast and crew of the event.

The small park and bar near Cortijo Vadillo is called Nacimiento and it was a campground during the festival. We spent much time here talking to the dreadlocked and definitely not-shy people. There were also sound stystems set up in the farmers' fields with loud techno music and little bars to go with them. Quite a festival. The amount of trash generated was enormous, but each morning, workers from Alcala came right in to clean it up, and it appeared as if nothing had happened (except for a couple passed out people still crashed out on the street).

I will tell you this: the Spanish really know how to party!

Holy Bulwark Batman!

The castle at Alcala la Real was so sweet. Ever since I was a small boy, I have always wanted to go to a real castle. This one had it all. Narrow windows to shoot arrows out of, skinny stairways, ruins, and someone was even getting married there today. Awesome. We successfully navigated the impossibly narrow and totally confusing streets of Alcala and Castillo as I was the driver today. We ate special salad, bacon sandwich, tuna sandwich and calamares. Then we had ice cream to top it off. I had pineapple and it knocked me on my ear.

These towns are rarely visited by Americans, yet everyone is very helpful and curious as to where we are from and what we are doing. I just tell them that we are from the green land close to the calm sea and we are learning to be real gypsies. You know, getting back to our roots :) Salud!

A very happy birthday and much love to Elijah and Henry. We miss you!

Fresh Fish and the Fourth

Here's where we're staying: http://www.cortijovadillo.com/

The weather has turned brutally hot with daytime temps regularly hitting 95-104. This has led us to move our workday a bit: now starting around 8 so that we can finish before it gets too hot. We will probably move it even earlier as it gets hotter.


I have built a fine chicken coop with salvaged doors and windows from old houses around here. It should hold 8-10 hens comfortably and fairly soon. Cade has been working in the garden and helping me with chicken coop design issues.


Last weekend was the 4th of July, a very patriotic American holiday... our indepedence day. So we thought it would be appropriate to spend the weekend camping at the Mediterranean with our English hosts.


On Friday afternoon, we travelled about 2 hours to a small cove southeast of Granada with a rocky and sandy beach that had a tiny camping area next to an open air bar. The bar had a fireplace on the north side that they used for grilling sardines. We ate a load of fresh seafood here... delicious!


The hills surrounding the beach were covered with Moorish rock terraces that at one time long ago grew foods of all kinds. At the top of one hill, you could see the remnants of an ancient windmill. There were large rocks marching into the sea, and from them you could see large Med resorts and towns up and down the coast... but this little cove was empty of buildings, save for the bar which did come in handy from time to time.


We all went swimming and snorkeling in water that was warm enough to stay in for as long as you wanted. There were small breakers that made it a bit difficult to get in and out of the water but were fun for body surfing. Both Isaiah and Diego are swimming really well and played a lot in the water.


We saw spear fishers with their catch, one of whom had an octopus. By day, we played in the surf and sand during and by night sat around the campfire telling stories and singing songs. The evening of the 4th, we had a cowboy stew with hot dogs in it... how patriotic!


On the north side of the cove, rocks pile out of the sea and at one spot you could jump from about 15 feet right into waves crashing the rocks. Time it just right and you were in a large swell about 600 yards from shore. Of course I jumped, and here I saw many fish and large schools of sardines.


All in all, our first experience at the Med was awesome: uncrowded beach, camping, open air bar, cliff jump, fresh fish and the Fourth of July. Couldn't have scripted it better.