Sunday, October 31, 2010

The Balkan Express to Istanbul




















You know, I was really looking forward to taking the overnight train to Istanbul. A sleeper car just seemed so romantic. The reality is that it is small, really small. The entire footprint of the room was as big as a twin bed. No joke. And into this space you cram all your luggage, selves and a sink, ladder and some shelves. So we were really happy to be in one. Especially after we waited on the platform for two hours in the freezing cold with one old man and some friendly Bulgarian skinheads to keep us company.












So the room feels like a submarine in the top of a swaying tree. Just as soon as you fall asleep there is a loud knock on your door. "Passport control!" You have to get up and show documents. Then about 15 minutes later you exit the train and show documents, pay visa fees and get your stamp. It was actually all worth it though because we got to Istanbul in the end.























Istanbul, Constantinople, Alexandria























This city is so old it defies your ability to picture it. Fortunately, it is jampacked with ancient sites so you don't have to.












We are staying in Taksim square, the heart of Istanbul. At any time of day or night there are hundreds of thousands of people walking around, maybe millions. It is an extremely accesible city, easy to walk, and plenty of reliable trams, buses and taxis.












We walked down the main boulevard of Taksim, through the sea of bobbing heads. Like Times Square on new years eve, squared. At the bottom of the hill we trammed to the Archeological museum, crowded tram.












The archeological museum was just, well huge, amazing, overwhelming... cuneiform, and every possible other artifact imaginable from all over the ancient world. Crazy.












We saw Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, walked over the sea of Marmara, climbed the Galata Tower, and went through the Spice Bazar. The Spice Bazar was intense, without a doubt the most crowded place I have ever been in. Like Chicago night club fire crowded. Man I love it here.












The place we are staying is called Planet Paprika, named after the musician Shantel's song of the same title. Give it a youtube.












Planet Paprika is great. Made even better by the terrific owner Serhat. What a great guy, another instant friend.












Anyway there is no real way to describe this city with words or pictures. It is just so huge and great. Tiny little streets packed with people and shops of all kinds. Lots of different kinds of people. Amazing buildings. Turkish delights and great food. Coffee!












I don't know, but I would have to say that along with cities like New York, and well Portland of course, Istanbul is not to be missed. [Editor's Note: It is the single most amazing city ever built... Paris included (gasp!)].












We have only a few days here and I am sure we will return someday.












Much love to all back home and abroad.












Moylanism, its happening.

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